Excessive Scardus Path in Albania: every part you’ll want to know

The Excessive Scardus Path in Albania is a wild various to the well-trodden Peaks of the Balkans Path. Right here’s all you’ll want to know

“Welcome to Lodge Radomirë Korab,” Agron greets me with an unlimited smile as I arrive at my lodgings. It’s the top of my second day on the Excessive Scardus Path and I’m in dire want of a drink. “Can I get you a beer?” he provides, clearly studying my thoughts.

Through the years, I’ve met individuals all world wide who might very effectively be operating multinational firms had they been born elsewhere. There was Werry at Port Decision Yacht Membership on Vanuatu’s Tanna Island, Josie the receptionist at Poseidon Dive Centre in Colombia’s Taganga and Amirico, a information on the Salkantay trek in Peru. All these individuals had an intelligence and talent that shone as vivid as any graduate or govt I’ve met within the UK. Not too long ago, within the tiny city of Radomirë in Albania, I met one other. 

Agron was one of many 10 million Albanians residing exterior their homeland – an unlimited quantity provided that Albania’s inhabitants is simply 2.4 million. The nation has seen mass emigration for the reason that finish of communism within the early Nineties. Throughout that point, authoritarian ruler Enver Hoxha successfully sealed the nation off from the surface world for many years.

Agron moved to the UK when he was simply 15. He got here with no English however learnt a commerce (carpentry) and labored for practically a decade in London. Nonetheless a younger man, he just lately returned to the household dwelling in Radomirë the place his household run a small café serving espresso and beer. The café continues to be the heartbeat of the village however above it, he’s constructed two flooring of visitor rooms which hikers use as a base to climb Mt Korab, the nation’s highest peak.

“I liked the UK,” he tells me one night as he seems up the valley towards Korab. “However, finally, I wished to come back again to my household and with this new path opening, the timing was excellent.”

Agron has labored wonders since his return. His lodge is essentially the most snug lodging alongside the path with heat service, scorching showers, quick wifi, an outstanding restaurant and all of the sturdy espresso and chilly beer you possibly can need. 

Agron might certainly be operating a multinational someplace, however I count on he’s fairly content material the place he’s – and who can blame him? He lives on the foot of a mountain in one in all Europe’s least-explored landscapes – a location many CEOs would pay hundreds of thousands for. I feel Agron’s the one who’s profitable in life.

Introducing the Excessive Scardus Path

I used to be initially planning to trek the Peaks of the Balkans Path, a traditional round trek by means of the borderlands of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. I had accomplished my analysis, purchased my guidebook and was able to e-book flights once I reached out to Ricardo, co-owner of Zbulo! Uncover Albania who organise guided and self-guided treks all through the Balkans. 

On listening to my stage of expertise, Ricardo informed me in regards to the Excessive Scardus Path, a just lately developed and award-winning path by means of a comparatively unknown area of the Western Balkans. Ricardo was eager to emphasize that the as soon as unknown Peak of the Balkans Path was now at risk of overtourism. He estimates that for each hiker on the Excessive Scardus Path, there are round 500 on the Peak of the Balkans Path.

With that in thoughts, I leapt on the probability to discover the quieter ranges of Albania’s Western Balkans by way of an eight-day, self-guided trek of the Excessive Scardus Path, a part of the longer 362km route by means of the borderlands of Kosovo, Albania and North Macedonia. And quiet it was. These proved to be among the least visited mountains in Europe. 

As I had booked onto a self-guided trek, I used to be anticipating to be climbing alone. Nonetheless, I quickly met a gaggle of 4 different hikers who have been on the identical itinerary as me so we fell into step collectively. Apart from my new trek mates, I counted fewer than 20 different hikers throughout my complete six days of trekking! As an alternative, I met lots of of sheep, a dozen sheepdogs and a herd of untamed horses.

Into the Western Balkans

The path begins by winding by means of the glacial valleys and alpine meadows within the borderlands of Albania and Kosovo, only a brief drive from the small border metropolis of Kukës, the first ever nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize for its position in sheltering over 400,000 refugees in the course of the Kosovo Struggle. 

The primary day is a comparatively easy-going hike to the summit of Mt Kallabak (2,174m) sitting on the border of Albania and Kosovo. From there, the path descends to the tiny village of Çajë the place hikers are welcomed at a modest homestay for the evening. 

The second day continues over a excessive ridgeline previous scores of communist-era bunkers. Through the Chilly Struggle, Albania’s dictator Enver Hoxha satisfied the nation that the surface world wished to overthrow their communist state. The consequence was an estimated 500,000 bunkers dotted throughout the nation’s panorama. 

Within the highlands of the Western Balkans, these bunkers now function useful path markers whereas wild horses, flocks of sheep and cattle roam the encircling hillsides. Often, they act as shelters for semi-nomadic shepherds guarding their livestock from native bears and wolves.

To the summit of two nations

The second day finishes on the tiny city of Radomirë, a well-liked base for climbing Albania’s – and North Macedonia’s – highest peak, Mt Korab (2,764m). I spent two nights right here doing simply that at Agron’s snug pension. 

Common is just not fairly the proper phrase for the path to the highest of Mt Korab. Actually, it was the busiest I had seen on the Excessive Scardus Path nevertheless it was removed from crowded. Our group solely encountered a handful of different hikers all through the day, most of them day-hikers visiting Radomirë simply to climb Mt Korab.

It’s a lengthy day to the summit of two nations and so as to add to the problem, the climate had modified. Thick fog had rolled in, bringing a chill to the air together with an occasional bathe. The day is essentially the most diversified when it comes to terrain because the path rises sharply, passing over streams, by means of woods and throughout broad, grassy pastures earlier than circling the mountain and following a ridge alongside the border to the summit. A flagpole flying the Albania flag marks the best level.

Sadly, the climate meant the dual-country, panoramic views the height is famed for weren’t on supply. As an alternative, it was a whiteout in each path. Fortuitously, I’d seen a lot of the surroundings in the course of the earlier two days of strategy. Fortuitously, in the course of the descent, the skies cleared revealing Korab’s jagged ridgeline.

Balkan hospitality

The fourth day is a gradual climb out of Radomirë and over Grama Cross to a large glacial valley the place a lake makes an ideal picnic spot. From right here, the path descends steeply to the Girls’ Pastures at 1,770m. Right here, the shepherds of the Kaloshi clan welcome hikers to a modest cluster of wood huts. On arrival, our group was welcomed with cups of sturdy espresso earlier than we dug right into a hearty meal adopted by a night round a roaring campfire. 

There isn’t a telephone reception, wifi, electrical energy or scorching water on the Girls’ Pastures. However what the makeshift hamlet lacks in dwelling comforts, it makes up for in allure and setting. The environment are beautiful and the views from the close by escarpment have been essentially the most sensational of the trek.

The penultimate day of climbing begins with a steep ascent and descent into the adjoining valley, adopted by an undulating monitor that follows the contours round a spur earlier than progressively dropping into the quaint village of Rabdisht.

Right here, trekkers are welcomed to an enthralling guesthouse run by the eccentric Sabri and his spouse, Festa. Sabri took our group on a brief tour of the village which included dropping right into a neighbour’s for a glass of raki. Afterwards, we returned to the guesthouse the place we – together with their different friends – have been served an unlimited meal, extra raki and inspired to bop across the desk to Albanian people music. 

The ultimate day is a comparatively brief amble across the tiny villages dotting the panorama. As such, we rose late, ate a hearty breakfast and stated our goodbyes to Sabri and Festa. With solely 12km to cowl and little ascent, we took our time on a circuit of the valley, dropping out and in of distant, sleepy villages. We met our switch on the hamlet of Bellovë and inside three hours have been in buzzing Tirana, showering off the mud and heading out for a celebratory meal. 

The Excessive Scardus Path is a novel trek which leaves you with reminiscences that can stick with you lengthy after the journey. Mighty horizons, sheepdogs and forested slopes. Conversations with an expat now again the place he belongs. Nice hunks of sheep’s cheese for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A tatty purple flag fluttering on the high of two nations. And dancing round a dinner desk, flushed from raki and never caring.

The necessities: trekking the Excessive Scardus Path in Albania

What: Trekking the Excessive Scardus Path in Albania.

The place: The trek contains seven nights of lodging. The lodgings vary from snug accommodations and pensions to extra rustic shepherds’ huts and homestays. Motels embody the primary evening in Kukës and the ultimate evening in Tirana whereas the 2 nights halfway by means of at Radomirë are in a cushty pension. There are two nights in additional fundamental lodgings – one at Çajë the place you’ll be in a shared transformed barn and one in shepherds’ huts at Grama Alp. The ultimate evening within the mountains is at an enthralling guesthouse full with apple orchards and the eccentric Sabri and his spouse, Festa. Solely the shepherds’ huts at Grama Alp wouldn’t have scorching showers.

When: The perfect time to trek the Excessive Scardus Path in Albania is between June and September because the mountains will probably be largely snow-free. Zbulo runs guided and self-guided treks all through this era. It’s nonetheless doable to go in early October however the climate is getting noticeably colder and fewer constant. For quieter trails and to keep away from the warmth of excessive summer season, we suggest the shoulder seasons of June and September. 

How: I joined an eight-day self-guided trek of the Excessive Scardus Path with Zbulo Uncover Albania. The trek contains all guiding supplies together with maps of each stage, a roadbook with detailed route descriptions, a GPS machine and a backup telephone in case of emergency.

The trek additionally contains seven nights of lodging; all breakfasts, six lunches and 5 dinners (you solely must cowl the primary night meal in Kukës and the final in Tirana); transfers to and from the airport; all baggage (as much as 15kg) transfers between lodging; and all entrance charges, trekking and border crossing permits.

Costs for an eight-day self-guided trek of the Excessive Scardus Path begin at €925. You must price range to spend an extra €60-90 on meals and drinks in the course of the journey.

Gear: Zbulo gives an in depth packing listing effectively earlier than your departure together with plenty of different ideas and helpful data. Ensure you have appropriate climbing boots, cold-weather clothes and waterproof clothes in addition to your favorite snacks. Whereas bedding is provided in any respect lodging, it’s a good suggestion to take a sleeping bag for the nights on the homestay and shepherds’ huts.

Transferring on: Tirana is well-connected by way of bus to varied home and worldwide locations together with Durrës, Saranda and Korçë in Albania, Pristina and Prizren in Kosovo and Skopje and Ohrid in North Macedonia.

Entry: I flew to Tirana in Albania from London with Ryanair however there are a number of carriers accessible. Ebook by way of Skyscanner for the very best costs.

Sim card: We suggest getting a Holafly eSIM for Albania so you’ll be able to keep linked to the web in your journey. We are able to supply our readers 5% off Holafly purchases. Merely use the code ATLASANDBOOTS at checkout.

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Lead picture: Atlas & Boots